End of the season. Store youngtimers and classics correctly.

Season 2019 is over. Saab classic cars and classics are stored in their winter quarters. To avoid damage, so you do not experience a negative surprise at the start of the season 2020, you should pay some attention to a few things. What we should know when wintering the automotive heritage, we describe here.

End of the season. Store classics and youngtimer correctly
Two Saab 9000 generations are waiting for the coming season

Season ends, the dirt must go down!

Before storing, you should thoroughly clean your classic. Exterior cleaning is mandatory, the dirt must from the paint! Then dry thoroughly after washing! The interior must also be cleaned. Who wants to start the new season with the dirt of last year? Apart from that, unkempt, dirty interiors literally have a life of their own. Nobody likes that.

The door seals deserve special attention once a year. Clean with lukewarm water and then treat with care products. So they stay dense and supple, for many years. Leather and upholstery also deserve some attention. Who cleans his leather and treated with care products, does not go wrong.

Change engine oil!

Professionals recommend changing the engine oil before the end of the season. Oil can contain corrosive substances, a precautionary change takes the risk. Who is done with the oil check, should immediately take a look at the frost protection. The radiator antifreeze loses its effect after 4 years and should therefore be checked regularly. Garages do this during the inspection, and those who wait their Saab on their own tend to forget this point.

For many years it was advised to fill the tank before the end of the season. That was in a time when the fuel was still free of vegetable additives. Today filling is advisable only for vehicles with steel tank, it avoids the formation of rust in the tank. Most Saab classics and Youngtimer have plastic containers, for which the filling is not mandatory.

Air pressure ok?

Before storing it is recommended to increase the air pressure. 3 to 4 bar are considered good, if you really want to avoid a stand plate, he pushes his car every few weeks by hand a few meters back and forth. Alternatively, you can jack up the classic and relieves the suspension and is on the safe side. Now just disconnect the battery or at least connect it to a maintenance device. Professionals always recommend at the end of the season, the expansion of the battery, which is advisable. Leaking battery acid causes unsightly damage, which is reliably avoided.

Window open, window closed?

Finally, cover the Saab with a blanket or a “car garage”. Suitable fabrics are available for little money on the web. You avoid dusting the classic. The controversial question is whether the windows should be left slightly open - which is good for air circulation, but it can be a disaster for the interior. Small, nasty rodents are also looking for a cozy home in winter; the fewest garages and halls are 100% safe from them. In the spring it can come as an unsightly surprise, replacing a destroyed interior really costs money.

It's better if you leave the windows closed and place a small container of salt in the Saab instead. The commercial salt, only a few cents expensive, keeps the air dry and prevents the formation of mold or condensation. It's that easy.

19 thoughts too "End of the season. Store youngtimers and classics correctly."

  • A very good contribution. One can only warn against the small rodents. We had the windows open. A nest, feces and stink were the least of the problems.

  • I'm also doing my convertible for the 31.10. get ready to take it to winter quarters. Thanks for the hints, everything had already been done only with the frost protection was new to me. Is checked. Thanks Tom.

  • Thank you for the helpful tips! Make everyone sense. Will wait 2 until 3 weeks, and then also end the season for the 9000er for this year, unfortunately!

  • The salt

    I wonder what comments and additional tips generated this article?

    If I had something on the pan, I would write it now. But I feel more like 9.3Wolfgang. I have already learned. The cheap salt in open containers is for me personally a good tip - or rather, an impetus to return to the tried and true and actually well-known ...

    Ironically, my mother-in-law had given me well-meaning with recyclable but complicated to dry air dehumidifiers, which were probably advertised aggressively and ecologically and economically dubious and thus dissuaded from the path of virtue. What an irony ...

    Were not the mothers and grandmothers (or grandfathers) always the same, who have passed on valuable knowledge from generation to generation and from mouth to mouth and kept it alive?

    Anyway, in the future, salt will come back to my vintage car in the winter. And if it is wet, it comes in the salt container of the dishwasher. Thus, this measure is economically and ecologically cost neutral.
    It could not be better ...

  • Thanks for the hint. Stupid question on my part. If I upgrade the battery, will not I get into trouble with the Immobilizer, Radio and Co?
    There is also this dry cylinder (Perma Bag) for the interior and the trunk is not that better? If synonymous clearly more expensive!

    • No, not according to my experience. The Trionic needs a few miles in the spring to recalibrate. More does not happen.
      A permabag is of course a fine thing. The cylinder can be used and regenerated for several years. In connection with the matching outer shell you have to invest 1k, not exactly little. Unfortunately, many other desiccants are pure chemistry, a package of salt costs 0,19 cents. It is simply a personal decision at what level you want to do the “wintering”.

  • The 9-5 is also fun for you and is a really good substitute for the 9000

  • @ Tom

    fine. Thanks for the answer. Then I will take out the battery. If I also need the outer shell for these permabags, I'll take the salt :-). have only a car cover from Car e Cover, although breathable but not closed. Thanks again for the tip!

  • Some may laugh at me now, but I regularly spray my two oldies and my 1998 9-3 convertible with WD-40, of course not quite

    I spray in the rabbet and in the small openings at the bottom of the doors, which are supposed to cause the water to run out of the doors. Then I spray in the door hinges, door hanger and also on the electrical systems such as ignition coil, fuses, relays, etc. previously but for safety's sake, the battery hang. Do not forget the ignition, the contacts there also want to be lubricated.
    Finally, I spray the rubber parts on the bottom of the suspension and steering. Twice a year I blow the brake dust out of the caliper, with a small compressor. First of all what comes out of dust. In this work, wear a mouth and nose protection, the dust is not exactly comfortable to inhale!

    Result: it does not chew, spit or crackle, there is no rust on the door edges and other folds and the electrical system is also very well protected. My two Lancia are absolutely stainless, I think not last because of the generous use of WD-40! (have no shares with this manufacturer)

    The cars are polished at least once, better twice a year. The red of the delta shines like the first day and the yellow of my 9-3er convertible is just great, rich color. (got the Swisswax set from my colleagues for the pension, the products are expensive, but very good)

    And yes, it takes effort and time. As a pensioner, at least I have enough of the latter 😉

    Allow me to mention that I was in Padova and Verona for the last few days. I crossed some passes with my 9-3X with Hirsch Performance. Little traffic, great weather and a Saab at its best! Fantastic!

    Keep having fun with Saab and get through the winter!

    • No, I'm not laughing. WD-40 is an oil product and reminds me of the conservation methods that used to exist in the countryside. The farmers sprayed their machines (and not just those) with waste oil before the winter. Very effective to conserve, but questionable under other aspects. Of course nobody does that today.

  • @ Hans S.

    I'm also into the Double-UD-fourty (WD40) since I first met it in the UK before felt 100 years ago ...
    But a rubber care or even the qualities of wax (on paint) or a good (pol or Lager-) fat for their respective purpose, I dare the stuff (a rust remover) then not to ...

    It is far too fluid and aggressive to be anywhere on any vehicle to be superior to any other medium on any material. Even if you have the right success so far, I would think about various and each earmarked funds ...

    WD40 is pretty cool and can do a lot, but it's not the holy grail and not a panacea.

  • WD40 (PS @ Hans S.)

    WD40 has the property of dissolving fats, oils & wax better than most grease removers. I clean my bike chains with WD40. After cleaning, however, a liquid wax comes back on the chain because WD40 is not a (!) Lubricant.
    But on the contrary. During cleaning with WD40, the chain runs as loud as if it were dry.

    I really urge you to be careful when using WD40. Yes, it displaces water, loosens rust and also leaves a certain protective film. But it also solves a cavity seal or flushes wax or grease from a door hinge or a bearing.

    I also had good experiences with WD40 in castles. But the example of the (loud) bicycle chain shows impressively that you better lubricate moving and loaded parts differently if you want to preserve and preserve them. WD40 is simply too thin.

  • I unlock the hood of our 9-3 I Convertible so that it is not so suspenseful over the winter months.

  • Herbert is completely right. Better is Ballistol!
    Can take for almost everything and is environment friendly. I always do it in the wash water then rainwater rolls off super.
    For real leather, cockpit and rubber seals .... Ballistol is just great.

  • @ Capri73, thanks for the tip, I have not known until now, although the product is probably already over 100 years old 🙂

    Question; for leather? An oil, a creeping oil? How does it work?
    Thanks and regards
    Hans S.

  • @ Capri 73,

    I'll buy (again) a few bottles of Ballistol. You lose the good and proven things and home remedies (and simple salt) just too easy out of sight. Even the wooden handles of my kitchen knives are looking forward to a few nourishing drops of Ballistol ...

    I just hope my SAAB does not shoot wildly after I wash this? 😉

    I would still very, very much like to read a reader contribution to the subject of vehicle care from you.
    Your comments have a lot of competence, experience and proven success.
    And there are no new cars from SAAB ...

  • Ballistol is really great. I always take for my riding saddle. He always looks like new after that. The hunters used to drink Ballistol to combat gallstones. You do not have to do it yourself.

  • @Herbert, maybe I can do it sometime. I still hope that we get to know each other personally.
    At the moment the third Saab is getting fit for the future.

  • @ Capri 73,

    both would be glad. Alone the exchange about Ballistol, about useful applications and anecdotes *, would have a lot of potential. Meanwhile congratulations to the 3. Saab.

    * The gallstones were new to me. But I still know it as a wound disinfectant or “rust remover” for ticks that should be “screwed” counter-clockwise out of a dog or own body as if it had a metric thread.


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